Art Islands Travel Guide
Use Art Island Center’s guide to Naoshima and its neighbors to plan your trip to Setouchi.
By Andrew McCormick
Looking to deepen your art island experience? Book a tour with a local guide!
Naoshima What to do Other islands When to visit Transportation Where to stay What to eat FAQs
What to do
The main attraction on Naoshima is its collection of art museums. These are the highlights.
Other islands
Thanks in large part to the Setouchi Triennale, there are now twelve islands in the eastern Seto Inland Sea featuring artwork. Here are four that you can easily reach from Naoshima, including two (Teshima and Inujima) that have museums accessible most of the year, and two others (Ogijima and Megijima) that have less art on non-Triennale years but are worth a visit regardless.
Please also check out David Billa's blog Setouchi Explorer for in-depth articles about all of the Setouchi "art islands."
When to visit
Transportation
Getting here and getting around: here's all you need to know* about the area's ports, ferries, and buses.
* While we do our best to keep this information up-to-date, you should double-check with applicable transit providers whenever possible. Also, during the Setouchi Triennale, we recommend using their official ferry guide.
Naoshima Ferries
For complete information, visit the Shikoku Kisen website.
Naoshima Town Bus
For complete schedule as well as information about the free Benesse Shuttle from Tsutsujiso, visit the Naoshima Tourism Association website.
Teshima Ferries
For complete information, visit the Teshima Tourism Association website.
Megijima & Ogijima Ferries
For complete information, visit the Meon website (PDF).
Looking to deepen your art island experience? Book a tour with a local guide!
Naoshima What to do Other islands When to visit Transportation Where to stay What to eat FAQs
Where to stay on Naoshima
If you are planning to spend a night or two on Naoshima, there are many options available. We list a few of our favorites here. Our picks range from budget to extravagant, with options for groups, families, and solo travelers. All are foreigner-friendly and English-capable. You can browse many more options on the Naoshima Tourism Association website.
My Lodge Naoshima
Miyanoura
From ¥15,000 for a private room
Website (English)
My Lodge Naoshima is a modern hotel on a hilltop overlooking the sea. It opened in 2020, and offers generous amenities including an in-house restaurant serving Mediterranean fare with a Setouchi twist. There's also an observation platform above the hotel that offers amazing panoramic views. It's located just outside of Miyanoura village, so it's very quiet, though it's a bit of a climb to reach it.
Bamboo Village
Honmura
From ¥5,000 per person
Website (English/Japanese)
Bamboo Village is a cozy, quirky guesthouse in the forest overlooking Honmura Village. It's close to Art House Project and bus connections, but away from the traffic. Its rooms have bunk beds and so it's great for groups. Normally it's a shared-room facility but, in response to the pandemic, they do not currently put people from multiple parties in the same room. The per-person rate is reduced depending on how many are in your party. The multilingual manager, Johnny, is very friendly.
Yado
Miyanoura
From ¥15,000
Website (Airbnb)
American-Japanese couple Jen and Ono moved to Naoshima from Tokyo and transformed a dilapidated house into an inviting, art-filled inn. The downstairs "blue room" sleeps several people, and larger parties can also book the entire house. Breakfast is provided for single-room bookings; whole-house bookings include use of the kitchen. Yado is centrally located in Miyanoura and very kid-friendly, making this spot great for families.
Shimacoya
Honmura
¥2,000 per person plus tent rental and other fees
Website (English & Japanese)
The ultimate budget lodging option on Naoshima is Shimacoya. Guests sleep in tents in a large shared room. Tents can be rented for ¥1,000; if you bring your own tent, you can pitch it in the garden outside. The toilet and shower facility is also shared. While not for everyone, the "tent stay" option is popular with young travelers and a great way to meet people. A small cafe and bookshop is also on the premises. The proprietor is a friendly former interior designer who has a fig orchard on the island with a small sauna.
Tsumuya
Tsumuura
From ¥10,000 for an entire home
Website (Booking.com)
Tsumuya is a small guesthouse in Naoshima's third village, Tsumuura. Up to 6 guests have the entire house to themselves, including a standard kitchen, a library, and a vintage, salon-style hairdryer chair. It features the classic elements of Japanese homes: tatami floors, sliding doors, and a hallway that looks out onto a traditional garden. Tsumuura is a quiet fishing village, but it's conveniently located between the museum area and Honmura. There are also a handful of restaurants in the village.
Benesse House
Museum Area
From ¥33,000 for a private room
Website (English)
Benesse House Museum is also a hotel—or several, really, all designed by Tadao Ando and each with unique qualities. Every room has sea views, star-caliber artwork, and generous amenities. The hotel staff offer exceptional service and will even pick you up from the port in special shuttles. Guests at the Museum hotel rooms have round-the-clock access to the museum galleries. If you're after an unforgettable experience and don't mind the splurge, the Oval rooms crest a mountaintop; enormous glass windows offer guests their own private slice of the Setouchi panorama.
What to eat on Naoshima
There are many, many places to eat on Naoshima, with food ranging from simple snacks to fine cuisine. But there are also times when it seems like absolutely nothing is open. Here are some of our favorites, with notes on location and opening times.
Note that many businesses close in the winter. Business owners do their best to anticipate staff and supply needs, but this is particularly difficult on a tourism island, so restaurants are often very busy, or simply run out of food. Plan ahead, dine early, and pack some snacks just in case, particularly in the busiest (summer) and least-busy (winter) seasons.
Miyanoura (West Naoshima)
Cin.na.mon
Closed Mondays and irregularly.
Google Maps
Cin.na.mon is a fun spot for lunch and dinner. Their seafood curry is a traveler favorite, while their evening izakaya menu boasts a wide variety of comfort food and drinks. It can be hard to get a table some nights, so try to come early or have a backup plan.
Shioya Diner / "Gumbo Hut"
Open irregularly for lunch and dinner.
Google Maps
Newly reopened after a several-year hiatus, Shioya Diner is next door to Naoshima Bath “I♥湯", near the port. Proprietors Buddy and Misuzu serve their signature gumbo, which you can customize with items like chicken and sausage, scallops, or mussels. Buddy's artful homage to the American diner burger is unfortunately no longer on the menu, but perhaps if we ask enough he'll bring it back...
Yuunagi
Open 11:00-15:00. Open evenings in the high season. Closed Tuesdays.
Google Maps | Website
Yuunagi offers a wonderful lunch menu featuring fried whole local flounder (hirame). The family that runs the restaurant raises the flounder themselves, so it is literally farm-to-table, and seriously delicious. Pulling the meat off the fish is more involved than eating western fish-and-chips but it's worth the effort.
New Olympia
Open 17:00-22:00. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Google Maps
New Olympia is a long-running sushi restaurant that's popular for dinner. During busy months, it may open for lunch as well. Note that the restaurant does not seat parties with small children.
Luke's Table
18:00-21:00 PM. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Reservation required: +81-87-873-2106 (English is OK.)
Google Maps
Luke's Table is the restaurant at My Lodge Naoshima. It's a bit of a walk to get there, but the restaurant offers sweeping sea views from its hilltop location. The daily dinner course features local seafood and produce in artfully-prepared dishes like mussel and scallop paella or wild boar sausage.
Tee's Deli Grocery
Open (very) irregularly.
Google Maps
Tee's Deli Grocery is a funky eatery and bar near the port. It's honestly neither a deli nor a grocery, but the two set meals on the menu, jerk chicken and falafel, are both delicious and the latter is vegan. It's also open late for dinner and drinks (and music). The young proprietor is happy to chat in English. Note that not even the local kami can predict when Tee's will be open, so plan accordingly.
Akaito Coffee
Open 7:00-17:00. Closed Wednesdays.
Google Maps
Unlike most coffee shops in the area, Akaito Coffee opens at 7 AM, making it a favorite for early risers. Coffee beans are roasted on the premises. Limited food options are available as well, like pizza toast and curry.
Mikazuki Shoten
Open 8:30-17:00. Closed Thursdays.
Google Maps | Website
This tiny coffeehouse offers great espresso drinks. The owner also runs an apparel shop in neighboring Okayama, so at the cafe you can browse local denim products, t-shirts, and other gifts.
Kokochi
Open 10:00-17:00.
Google Maps
Tucked away in a residential part of Miyanoura is a little bakery-cafe specializing in French sweets. Western-style desserts often disappoint in Japan, but this place is no joke: Everything is utterly delicious, with seasonal, local ingredients a regular feature. If sweets are your thing, check it out.
Honmura (East Naoshima)
Cafe Konichiwa
Open 10:00-17:00 every day.
Google Maps
Cafe Konichiwa is a cozy cafe overlooking Honmura Port. They have coffee and other drinks as well as a three-item lunch menu that hasn’t changed in years. But that’s fine! Their seafood curry, cream cheese risotto, and meat sauce doria are all delicious.
Luke’s Pizza & Grill
Open 11:30-14:30, 17:00-20:00 Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Google Maps | Website
Luke’s Pizza is a new restaurant that makes certifiably excellent pizza, with a sizable menu including Italian classics as well as Setouchi creations. Their desserts are great, too—try the cheesecake.
Aisunao
Open 11:00-14:30. Closed Mondays.
Google Maps
Open six days a week for lunch, Aisunao is a vegan restaurant in a country famously inhospitable to vegans. Aisunao does it right, serving animal ingredient-free versions of Japanese set meals.
Maimai
Open 11:00-17:00. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Google Maps
Maimai is the home of the “Naoshima Burger,” a fried fish sandwich made with local hamachi, or Japanese yellowtail. They have some indoor seating, but in mild weather it’s great to order a burger and tater tots and sit at one of their outdoor tables.
Ebisukamo
Open 11:30-14:00, 18:30-23:00. Closed Mondays and Wednesdays. Closed for lunch on Tuesdays.
Google Maps
A classic izakaya in the middle of Honmura village, Ebisukamo offers a lengthy menu of mostly seafood-based dishes, simply and deliciously prepared. Their sake menu is great, and the wait staff can recommend pairings. Alas, their hours can be weird and it’s not unheard of to be turned away because of a private event.
Cafe Salon Nakaoku
Open 11:30-15:00, 17:30-21:00. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Google Maps
Cafe Salon Nakaoku is an izakaya hidden away on a hill just outside of the main Honmura village. It’s popular in the evenings, and has a large menu of Japanese pub classics as well as original creations. Keep an eye out for signs leading the way there; they'll post a note if they are closed for the night.
Noraya
Open 17:00-21:00. Closed Sat-Mon.
Google Maps | Instagram
Noraya is a tiny sake bar overlooking the water near the port. The friendly proprietor serves an expertly selected rotation of Japanese sakes, a handful of other interesting drinks, and a menu of inspired small bites like fried whole horse mackerel, or raw tuna marinated in olive oil, soy sauce, and garlic chives. Vegetarian items available.
Yayoda
Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-20:00. Closed Monday-Thursday.
Google Maps
Yayoda serves excellent, traditional Japanese fare, emphasizing fresh fish caught locally. Included with your meal is a cup of light broth made from barnacles foraged from the Naoshima shore. Sake flights are available for the adventurous and the indecisive alike.
Pan Tocori
Open 8:00-18:00. Closed Monday-Wednesday.
Google Maps
Pan Tocori is a bakery located just up the road from the main Honmura village. It’s a great place to stop for a snack, like cheese bread and a yuzu (citrus) soda. Finding nice crusty bread with a good crumb is a rare pleasure in Japan, where fluffy white bread dominates.
Okashi to Coffee
Open 12:00-16:00. Closed Wednesday-Friday.
Google Maps
Try expertly crafted espresso drinks and a wide assortment of house-made desserts and snacks. In the summer, their chai shaved ice is outstanding. No indoor seating.
Hifumiyo Coffee
Open 8:30-12:00, 13:00-16:30. Closed Mondays.
Google Maps
Hifumiyo Coffee is across the street from Art House Minamidera. Their espresso drinks are fantastic, as is their hot chocolate.
Francoile
Open 12:00-17:00. Closed Mondays and Fridays.
Google Maps | Website
Francoile is a family-operated cafe and guesthouse. The owners roast specialty coffees from around the world, so you can choose from a range of roasts and countries of origin. Both drip coffee and espresso drinks are available, as well as desserts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the yellow pumpkin back?
Yep! Yayoi Kusama’s iconic Pumpkin (1994) was irreparably damaged by a typhoon in August 2021, but a new version was installed in October 2022.
Is it better to visit Naoshima during Setouchi Triennale?
Benesse Art Site Naoshima often debuts new museums, galleries, and major outdoor artworks during Triennale years. That said, these sites nearly always remain open when the Triennale concludes. Naoshima is also the most-visited island during the Triennale, so it can be quite crowded. So if you are planning a trip to Setouchi specifically to see Naoshima, it’s usually better to do it outside of the Triennale. However, if you’re here for the Triennale, there’s no reason to avoid Naoshima, either. Just make sure to plan ahead if you’d like to stay on the island, as rooms fill up quickly.
Is there a campground on Naoshima?
There is no campground on Naoshima. However, you can pitch your tent at Shimacoya for ¥2,000. Make a reservation ahead of time.
What about bicycle/motorbike/car rentals?
Check the Naoshima Tourism Association website. Many places rent bicycles on Naoshima. The three main rental companies have shops facing Miyanoura Port. If you arrive early enough, or are traveling in a not especially busy period, you can just walk in and rent a bicycle. However, if you’re traveling in a peak period, you should try to reserve a bicycle, especially if you want an e-bike (power-assisted).
A lot of places on Naoshima (including Art Island Center) do not have parking lots, so we recommend bicycles and scooters over cars in almost every case.
What are the vegetarian/vegan options on Naoshima?
Aisunao in Honmura serves vegan fare, as does Tee’s deli & bar in Miyanoura. Check with them ahead of time to make sure they are open. Many western-cuisine restaurants have vegetarian options, like Luke’s Pizza, but Japanese-cuisine restaurants use fish stock in nearly everything. In a pinch, there is a supermarket in Miyanoura and other grocery stores in Honmura and Tsumuura—check the Naoshima Tourism Association website for hours and locations.
I’m coming to Naoshima with children. What places are good for kids?
Naoshima can be a fun place for kids. We definitely recommend a light itinerary, particularly in hot weather, as the art sites are spread out and you’ll be doing a lot of walking. Art House Project is in the middle of Honmura village, so you can get snacks from a cafe or visit the playground by Minamidera. In Miyanoura, kids love going inside Yayoi Kusama’s Red Pumpkin and climbing around Naoshima Pavilion. There’s also a great, quiet beach nearby. But the best beach for kids is at Tsutsujiso; part of the water is netted off in the summer so it’s safe from jellyfish. The water is shallow near the shore and there’s a diving platform further out; there are also restrooms, as well as showers and hoses available for rinsing off before you leave.
Finally, Art Island Center is a fun stop, as we have books for children as well as children’s drawing supplies and other gifts.
We don’t recommend Chichu Art Museum for young kids, as their rules (no loud voices, don’t touch the walls) can be difficult. Older kids often enjoy it, though. Some restaurants are also not great for kids, particularly at dinnertime. New Olympia in Miyanoura has a no-young-kids policy.
Can I take photos in the museums?
Non-commercial photography is permitted in Benesse House Museum, Valley Gallery, Ando Museum, Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery, Naoshima Plan “The Water”, and Art House Project, with some exceptions. Videography is prohibited, as are tripods.
All photography is prohibited at Chichu Art Museum, Lee Ufan Museum, Naoshima Bath “I♥湯”, and Miyanoura Gallery 6, as well as the museums on Teshima and Inujima.
Drones are prohibited on museum grounds.
What's "Benesse"?
Benesse Holdings (originally Fukutake Publishing) is an educational corporation in Japan. Its former chairman, Soichiro Fukutake, is behind the major art museums and other installations on Naoshima, Teshima, and Inujima, which are collectively branded Benesse Art Site Naoshima. In reality, the various art sites are operated by three distinct entities: Benesse Holdings, Fukutake Foundation, and Naoshima Cultural Village. Additionally, some of the high-profile works on Naoshima, like the red pumpkin and Naoshima Pavilion, are owned by the town. Despite this complicated arrangement, the various players work hard to keep the experience seamless for visitors, though there are giveaways like the different photography policies at each museum (see the previous question).